ʻAʻole ʻoe e ʻike iā Sasha DiGiulian piʻi i nā Olumepika 2020-Akā he mea maikaʻi kēlā

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I ka manawa i hoʻolaha ai ke Kōmike 'Olumepika'Ālapa e piʻi i mua ka hoʻomaka' Olumepika i nā Pāʻani kauwela 2020 ma Tokyo, me he mea lā ua hāʻawi ʻia ʻo Sasha DiGiulian-ʻo kekahi o nā ʻōpio loa, nā mea piʻi aʻe i hoʻonani ʻia i waho e mākaʻi ana no ke gula. (ʻO kēia nā haʻuki hou āpau āu e ʻike ai ma nā Pāʻani Olimpika 2020.)

Ma hope o nā mea āpau, ʻaʻohe paʻakikī ka 25 makahiki i kahi moʻolelo i hiki ʻole iā ia ke haki: ʻO ia ka wahine ʻAmelika ʻĀkau mua i piʻi i ka papa 9a, 5.14d, i ʻike ʻia ʻo ia kekahi o nā piʻi haʻuki paʻakikī i hoʻokō ʻia e ka wahine. ; ua hoʻopaʻa ʻo ia ma luna o 30 mau piʻi piʻi wahine mua a puni ka honua, me ke alo ʻākau o ka Eiger Mountain (ʻike maʻalahi ʻia ʻo "Murder Wall"); aʻo ia ka wahine mua e piʻi manuahi i ka M300 Mora 2,300 kapuaʻi. Inā ʻo ia e hoʻokūkū i ka hoʻokūkū 'Olumepika, e like paha lilo he hoʻokūkū?

Akā ʻo DiGiulian, ka mea nāna i kākau e pili ana i ka hāʻawi ʻana i kāna moemoeā Olumepika ke haʻalele ʻo ia i ka heʻe ʻana no ka piʻi ʻana, ʻaʻole ʻo ia e hoʻolālā i ka hoʻi ʻana i kēlā moeʻuhane ma muli wale nō o ka piʻi ʻana i nā pāʻani i kēia manawa-a ua ʻōlelo ʻo ia he mea maikaʻi kēlā. Ma ke kū ʻana o kāna ʻoihana lanakila (ʻo DiGiulian ka wahine Poʻokela Honua, ka Poʻokela Pan-ʻAmelika Hui Pū ʻIa i hala ʻole no ʻumi mau makahiki, a he ʻekolu manawa ʻO ka Poʻokela Poʻokela Aupuni Hui Pū ʻIa o ʻAmelika Hui Pū ʻIa), ua lilo ka piʻina hoʻokūkū i ʻano ʻano haʻuki me nā hōkū hou, a hauʻoli ʻo ia e hoʻomālamalama iā lākou.

Mahalo hapa i ka poʻe piʻi e like me DiGiulian, ʻoi aku ka maʻalahi o ka piʻi ʻana ma mua o ka wā ma mua. He kanahākūmākolu mau hale haʻuki piʻi piʻi hou i loko o ʻAmelika Hui Pū ʻIa ma 2017, kahi 10 pakeneka e hoʻonui a aneane pālua i ka nui o nā hale haʻuki hou i wehe ʻia i ka makahiki ma mua. A ʻo nā wahine i kēia manawa he 38 pākēneka o nā mea hoʻokūkū piʻi piʻi a pau, e like me ka International Federation of Sport Climbing. Makemake ʻo DiGiulian e ʻike i kēlā mau helu i lele nui; ʻo ia ke kumu, neʻe i mua, makemake ʻo ia e hoʻolaʻa i kāna mau hoʻāʻo e lawe i ka piʻina i ka nui o ka poʻe i hiki.

ʻOiai ʻo kāna mau mea hoʻokūkū mua e hoʻokūkū ana no ka International Federation of Sport Climbing World Cup ma nā pāʻani GoPro, i kākoʻo ʻia e GMC, ma Vail, CO, ua wehe ʻo DiGiulian e pili ana i ka piʻi ʻana o ke kaulana o ka piʻi, no ke aha i makemake nui ai nā wahine i ka haʻuki, a me kāna mau pahuhopu. ma waho o ke gula 'Olumepika.

Kinohi: Ua ʻike ʻia ka piʻi ʻana i ka mahalo i nā makahiki i hala iho nei. Mahalo paha ia i kona hoʻomaopopo ʻia e ka Olumepika, a i ʻole he mea ʻē aʻe e pāʻani ana?

Sasha DiGiulian (SD): Ua wehe ʻia kēia lele kalepa nui ma nā piʻo piʻi e hāmama ana ma ka honua holoʻokoʻa. Ua unuhi ʻia e like me kēia ʻano ʻano hoʻoikaika ʻokoʻa: Maʻalahi ke komo ʻana i loko, pili a launa pū, mahalo i nā ʻano a me nā nui o ke kino, a he hoʻomaʻamaʻa kino holoʻokoʻa maikaʻi loa ia. (E kōkua kēia mau hoʻoikaika i kou kino no ka piʻi.)

A ʻo ka piʻi ʻana he maʻa mau ia he ʻano haʻuki i hoʻomalu ʻia e nā kāne, akā ʻoi aku ka nui o nā wahine ma mua o ka piʻi ʻana i kēia manawa. Manaʻo wau ua ʻike nā wahine hiki iā ʻoe ke lilo i wahine a ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi ma mua o nā kāne ma ka hale hoʻoikaika kino. ʻO wau e ʻōlelo nei, ʻo 5'2 wau '' a maopopo ʻole he kāne nui, muscular, akā maikaʻi wau me kaʻu hana. ʻO nā mea āpau e pili ana i ka lakio o ka ikaika-i-kino, nāna ia e hoʻokani maoli, haʻuki like ʻole.

Kinohi: Me nā wahine e piʻi i ka ʻoihana ʻoihana, ua loaʻa i nā mea ka hoʻokūkū hou aku?

SD: ʻO ke kaiāulu piʻi kaiāulu loa. ʻO ia kaʻu mea punahele e pili ana i ka piʻina. Ke hele nei mākou āpau i nā ʻike like a hoʻolōʻihi mākou i nā manawa he nui, no laila hiki ʻole ke lilo i mau hoa aloha maikaʻi. Ke pili ʻoe ma o kahi makemake nui, manaʻo wau e huki iā ʻoe i nā ʻano like like kahi e hiki ai iā ʻoe ke hoʻohui pono.

Manaʻo wau ʻo ka mea e paʻa ai nā wahine i nā haʻuki i kekahi manawa ʻaʻole ʻike e hoʻāʻo. ʻO wau ka wahine ʻAkau ʻAmelika ʻĀkau mua i piʻi i ka papa 9a, 5.14d, a ʻo ia ka piʻina paʻakikī i hoʻokumu ʻia e ka wahine ma ka honua. I kēia manawa, i loko o nā makahiki ʻehiku i hala aku nei, ua nui nā wahine ʻē aʻe ʻaʻole i hoʻokō wale i kēlā, akā lawe hou iā Margo Hayes, ka mea nāna i hana ka 5.15a mua, a me Angela Eiter, nā mea i hana ka 5.15b mua. . Manaʻo wau e hoʻokau kēlā me kēia hanauna i nā palena o nā mea i hoʻokō ʻia. ʻO ka nui o nā wahine, ʻo ka nui o nā kūlana e ʻike mākou i ka haki.(Eia nā wahine piʻi pōhaku ʻino ʻē aʻe e hoʻoikaika iā ʻoe e hoʻāʻo i ka haʻuki.)

Kinohi: Pehea kou manaʻo e pili ana i ka piʻi ʻana i ka ʻOlumepika?

SD: Nui koʻu hauʻoli i ka ʻike ʻana i ka piʻina i ka Olumepika! Ke ulu nui nei kā mākou haʻuki, a ʻaʻole hiki iaʻu ke kali e ʻike i ka piʻi ʻana ma ia kahua. I koʻu wā i ke kula kiʻekiʻe, ʻo wau kekahi o nā keiki liʻiliʻi i ʻike maoli i ke ʻano o ka piʻi ʻana ma kaʻu kula. A laila hoʻi wau a ʻōlelo wau i kaʻu kula i hoʻokahi makahiki aku nei a aia ma kahi o 220 mau keiki i ka pahu piʻi. Ua like wau, "E kali, ʻaʻole ʻoukou i ʻike i kaʻu hana i kēlā manawa!"

Ua ulu a ulu nui ka piʻi ʻana mai ka wā i lanakila ai au i ka World Championships ma 2011-ua hoʻololi loa ke ʻano a me ke ʻano. Makemake au i ka ʻike ʻana i ka holomua, akā ʻaʻole wau i hana i kekahi o nā mea e koi ai ka Olumepika, e like me ka piʻi wikiwiki ʻana [e hoʻokūkū pū ka poʻe piʻi i ka piʻi nui a alakaʻi piʻi piʻi]. No laila, ke manaʻo nei au he ʻoi aku ka moemoeā ʻOlumepika no ka hanauna hou e ulu nei me kēia ʻano hou.

Kinohi: He mea paʻakikī paha iā ʻoe ke hoʻoholo inā e hoʻokūkū a ʻaʻole paha?

SD: He hoʻoholo paʻakikī loa ia e hoʻoholo. Makemake au e hoʻi i nā hoʻokūkū a hoʻolaʻa maoli i nā makahiki e hiki mai ana i ka piʻi ʻana i ka plastic i ka hale haʻuki? A i ʻole makemake wau e hahai i kaʻu mea i manaʻo maoli ai e like me kaʻu makemake e hana? ʻO ka mea aʻu e makemake nui ai e piʻi i waho. ʻAʻole au makemake e ʻae i ka noho ʻana ma waho, a me ka hana ʻana i kēia mau piʻi pā nui aʻu i hoʻolālā ai, e noho i ka hale haʻuki a me ke aʻo ʻana. No ka hoʻokūkū ʻana i ka 'Olumepika, pono wau i kēlā tubular focus a hoʻonohonoho hou i kaʻu mau mea nui. (Eia nā wahi epic he 12 e piʻi pōhaku ma mua o kou make ʻana.)

Akā ʻo nā mea a pau i loko o kaʻu ʻoihana, ʻo kēlā me kēia kūleʻa i loaʻa iaʻu, no ka mea ke hana nei au i kaʻu mea e makemake ai e hana a me ka hahai ʻana i koʻu makemake. ʻAʻohe oʻu ʻiʻini i ka piʻi ʻana i ka hale haʻuki, a inā ʻaʻole loaʻa iaʻu kēlā makemake, a laila ʻaʻole au e holomua. ʻAʻohe oʻu manaʻo e nalo ana, akā naʻe, no ka mea ua ʻike wau i kēia moeʻuhane o ka piʻi ʻana i loko o ka Olumepika. Haʻaheo wau i kā mākou haʻuki no ka hoʻokō ʻana i kēlā.

Kinohi: Me ka 'Olumepika ma waho o ka papa'aina, he aha kāu mau pahuhopu i kēia manawa?

SD: ʻO kaʻu pahuhopu nui e hoʻomaopopo i ka poʻe a pau i ka piʻi ʻana ma ke ʻano he haʻuki. He kaʻa maikaʻi loa ka media social no kēlā. Ma mua, he haʻuki niche ia; hele wale ʻoe a hana i kāu mea. I kēia manawa, ʻo kēlā me kēia huakaʻi a mākou e lawe ai aia ma ka lima o nā kānaka.

Loaʻa iaʻu nā papahana piʻi nui aʻe i loko o kekahi mau piʻi aʻu e makemake ai e hoʻokō-makemake wau e hana i nā piʻi mua ma nā ʻāina āpau. Akā makemake wau e hana i nā ʻike wikiō nui aʻe e pili ana i ka piʻi ʻana e like me kēia alawai i nā mea ʻē aʻe i ke ola, e like me nā ʻike immersive moʻomeheu aʻu e hele ai. Makemake au e hoʻomaopopo ka poʻe ʻo ka piʻi ʻana ka moku e ʻike ai i ka honua. ʻO ka manawa pinepine, ʻo kēia mau wikiō huahana hope loa a mākou e ʻike ai, kahi e piʻi ai ka mea piʻi i kekahi pali kupaianaha ma kahi kūlana kupaianaha. Ke waiho nei ka mea e nānā nei me ka haʻohaʻo, "Pehea ʻoe e hiki ai i laila?" Makemake au e hōʻike i nā kānaka he kanaka maʻamau wale nō wau. Hana wau, no laila hiki iā ʻoe. (E hoʻomaka ma aneʻi me nā ʻōlelo aʻoaʻo piʻi pōhaku no ka poʻe hoʻomaka a me nā pono o ka Pali Pōhaku Pono e pono ai ʻoe e kiʻi ma ka paia.)

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