No ke aha ʻoe e hoʻohui ai i ka Lactic, Citric, a me nā ʻakika ʻē aʻe i kāu papa mālama ʻili

Anter

• ʻAkela Mandelic
• ʻAikika Lactic
• ʻAkika Malic
• ʻAkela Azelaic
• ʻAikika Phytic
• ʻAkika Tartaric
• ʻAikika Citric
• Hoʻohui maikaʻi loa
• Nānā no

I ka wā i hoʻokomo ʻia ai ka waikawa glycolic i nā makahiki 1990 mua, ua hoʻololi ia no ka mālama ʻili. ʻIke ʻia ma ke ʻano he alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), ʻo ia ka mea hana ma mua o ka counter i hiki iā ʻoe ke hoʻohana ma ka home e hōʻeleu i ka make ʻana o ka ʻili make a hōʻike i ka ʻili hou, maʻalahi, ʻili plumper ma lalo. Ma hope mai ua aʻo mākou he hiki i ka derivative kō ke hoʻonāukiuki i ka hana collagen o kou ʻili.

A laila hele mai ka salicylic acid, he beta hydroxy acid (BHA) hiki ke hoʻopau i ka hoʻokumu ʻana o ka sebum i loko o nā pores a hana e like me ka anti-inflammatory, maikaʻi ia no ka ʻili ʻulaʻula, huhū, ʻeha. (E nānā: ʻO Salicylic Acid maoli kahi mea hana mana no ka huehue?) A ʻo kahi hopena, ua lilo ka waikawa glycolic i kūlana gula no ka antiaging a me ka salicylic acid i lilo i mea pale anti-huehue. ʻAʻole i hoʻololi ʻia a hiki i kēia manawa.

I kēia manawa, loaʻa kekahi mau mea mālama ʻili i nā waikawa liʻiliʻi e like me ka mandelic, phytic, tartaric, a me ka lactic. No ke aha nā mea hoʻohui? "Manaʻo wau i nā waikawa glycolic a me salicylic e like me ke alakaʻi alakaʻi i kahi pāʻani a me kēia mau ʻakika ʻē aʻe ma ke ʻano he kākoʻo kākoʻo. Ke hana like lākou āpau, hiki iā lākou ke hoʻomaikaʻi i ka hana," wahi a Kinohi ʻO ka lālā Brain Trust ʻo Neal Schultz, M.D., he dermatologist o New York City.

ʻO kēia mau mea pāʻani e hoʻomaikaʻi i ka pono no nā kumu ʻelua. ʻO ka mea mua, ʻoiai ka hapa nui o nā waikawa e kōkua ai i ka exfoliation, "e hana ana kēlā me kēia mea i hoʻokahi mea pono aʻe no ka ʻili," wahi a ka NYC dermatologist ʻo Dennis Gross, M.D (E pili ana: 5 mau mea mālama ʻili e hoʻopau ai i ka ʻili ʻeleʻele a kōkua iā ʻoe e ʻālohilohi mai loko mai) ʻO ke kumu ʻelua ʻo ka hoʻohana ʻana i nā waikawa lehulehu ma kahi haʻahaʻa haʻahaʻa (ma kahi o hoʻokahi ma kahi kiʻekiʻe kiʻekiʻe) hiki ke hoʻohaʻahaʻa i ke kumu. "Ma mua o ka hoʻohui ʻana i hoʻokahi waikawa ma 20 pākēneka, makemake au e hoʻohui i ʻehā mau waikawa ma 5 pākēneka e loaʻa ai nā hopena like me ka liʻiliʻi o ka loaʻa ʻana o ka ʻulaʻula," wahi a Dr. Gross. (FYI, kahi hui o nā waikawa ka mea hoʻokalakupua ma hope o Baby Foot.)

No laila he aha nā pōmaikaʻi kikoʻī e hāʻawi ʻia e kēia poʻe up-and-comers? Haki mākou iā ia:

ʻAkela Mandelic

He mole nui loa kēia, no laila ʻaʻole ia e komo hohonu i ka ʻili. "ʻOi aku ka maikaʻi o ia no nā ʻano pīhoihoi no ka mea ʻo ke komo ʻana o ka shallower ʻo ia hoʻi ka haʻahaʻa o ka huhū," wahi a Dr. Gross. ʻO Renée Rouleau, kahi esthetician kaulana ma Austin, i ʻōlelo ʻia hiki i kēia AHA ke kōkua pū me "kaohi i ka hana ʻana o nā pigment nui loa." Me hoʻokahi hōʻailona. "Kōkua ka waikawa Mandelic i ka hoʻomaikaʻi ʻana i ka exfoliation a hoʻohaʻahaʻa i ka makaʻu o ka huhū ke hui pū ʻia me ka glycolic, lactic, a i ʻole salicylic, akā ʻaʻole lawa paha ia o kahi mea hoʻokani mana e noho i kahi huahana wale nō."

ʻAikika Lactic

No ka manawa lōʻihi-Ua hoʻohana ʻo Cleopatra i ka waiū ʻino i loko o kāna ʻauʻau ma kahi o 40 BC no ka mea ua kōkua ka waika lactic maoli o ka waiū e hoʻopau i ka ʻili ʻino-akā ʻaʻole i loaʻa i ka kaulana glycolic-level no ka mea ʻaʻole ikaika loa, hiki ke lilo mea maikaʻi. He mole mika nui ʻo Lactic, no laila he koho pono ia no nā ʻano maʻalahi, a ʻokoʻa ka mandelic, lawa ka mana e lilo i alakaʻi i mea huahana. Ua wehewehe ʻo Kauka Gross e hoʻopaʻa pū ka waika lactic i ka papa luna o ka ʻili a hoʻoulu iā ia e hana i nā ceramides, e kōkua i ka mālama ʻana i ka makū a me nā mea hoʻonāukiuki. (Ua lohe paha ʻoe e pili ana i ka lactic acid e pili ana i ka luhi o ka mākala a me ka hoʻōla hou ʻana.)

ʻAkika Malic

Hoʻokumu mua ʻia mai nā ʻāpala, hāʻawi kēia AHA i kekahi o nā pono antiaging like me ka lactic acid, akā "ʻoi aku ka maʻalahi," wahi a Debra Jaliman, M.D., he dermatologist o New York City. Ke hoʻohui ʻia ma ke ʻano he kākoʻo i loko o ka haʻilula e paʻa ana nā waikawa ikaika e like me ka lactic, glycolic, a me ka salicylic, kōkua ia i ka exfoliation akahai a me ka stimulate ceramide.

ʻAkela Azelaic

ʻAʻole kahi AHA a i ʻole BHA, azelaic acid, i loaʻa mai ka palaoa, rai, a i ʻole ka bale, "ʻaʻohe mea antibacterial a me nā mea anti-inflammatory, e lilo ia i mea lapaʻau maikaʻi no ka haki a i ʻole rosacea," wahi a Jeremy Brauer, MD, kahi dermatologist o New York. . Mālama ia i nā mea ʻelua ma ka iho ʻana i nā follicle, ka luku ʻana i nā koʻohune i loko o lākou a kinai i ka mumū i hoʻokumu ʻia e ka maʻi. Hiki i ka Azelaic acid ke "hooki i ka hana ʻana o ka melanin keu no nā wahi ʻeleʻele, freckles, a me nā ʻāpana like ʻole ma ka ʻili," wahi a Kauka Jaliman. Kūpono ia no ka ʻili ʻeleʻele (ʻaʻole like me ka hydroquinone a me kekahi kukuna) no ka mea ʻaʻohe pilikia o ka hypo a i ʻole ka hyperpigmentation, a ʻae ʻia no nā wahine hāpai a hānai. He mea nui loa ia no ka mea "nui nā wahine i nā pilikia me ka melasma a me nā breakouts a puni ka hāpai keiki," wahi a Dr. Jaliman. (Eia pehea e hoʻokaʻawale ai i kou ʻili me nā lāʻau lapaʻau a me nā peels.)

ʻAikika Phytic

ʻO kahi waikawa ʻē aʻe ʻaʻole he AHA a ʻaʻole he BHA, he antioksantant kēia mea i waho, no laila kōkua ia i ka pale ʻana i nā radical free ʻelemakule ʻili. Hiki iā ia ke pale i nā ʻeleʻele a me ka hoʻoemi i nā pores. "Hana ka acid Phytic i ka gobbling i ka calcium, kahi mea maikaʻi ʻole no ka ʻili," wahi a Kauka Gross. "Hoʻohuli ʻo Calcium i ka aila o kou ʻili mai kahi wai i kahi wax, a ʻo ia ka wax mānoanoa e kūkulu ana i loko o nā pores, e alakaʻi ana i nā ʻeleʻele a e kīloi ana i nā pores i ʻike ʻia ka nui." (ʻO kēia nā mea a pau e pono ai ʻoe e ʻike e pili ana i ka hoʻopau ʻana i nā ʻeleʻele.)

ʻAkika Tartaric

Hele mai kēia AHA mai nā hua waina hū a hoʻohui ʻia i nā glycolic a i ʻole nā ​​lactic acid formulate e hoʻoikaika i kā lākou sloughing. Akā ʻo kāna pōmaikaʻi nui ʻo ia ka hiki ke hoʻoponopono i ka pae pH o kahi formula. "Kaulana nā waikawa no ka morphing pHs, a inā piʻi kiʻekiʻe a haʻahaʻa paha i kahi huahana, ʻo ka hopena ka huhū o ka ʻili," wahi a Rouleau. "Hiki i ka waikawa Tartaric ke kōkua i ka mālama pono ʻana i nā mea." (E pili ana: 4 mau mea maalea e hoolei ana i kou ili i ke kaulike)

ʻAikika Citric

E like me ka tartaric, waikawa citric, he AHA i loaʻa i ka makamua i nā lemona a me nā lime, mālama pū kekahi i nā waikawa ʻē aʻe i loko o kahi pae palekana PH. Hoʻohui ʻia, hana ia ma ke ʻano he preservative, e hiki ai i nā ʻōnaehana mālama ʻili ke noho hou aku. ʻO ka hope, ʻo ka citric acid kahi chelator, ʻo ia ka mea e hoʻopau ai i nā impurities hoʻonāukiuki (mai ka lewa, ka wai, a me nā metala kaumaha) ma ka ʻili. "Lawe ʻo Citric acid i kēia mau haumia i hiki ʻole iā lākou ke komo i kou ʻili," wahi a Kauka Gross. "Makemake au e noʻonoʻo iā ia he Pac-Man o ka ʻili." (PS pono ʻoe e heluhelu ma ka microbiome o kou ʻili.)

Hoʻohui maikaʻi loa

E hoʻāʻo i kēia mau huahana i loaʻa i ka waikawa no ka hoʻonui ʻana i ka ʻālohilohi.

• ʻO Kauka Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Exfoliating Moisturizer ($ 68; sephora.com) kaena i ʻehiku mau waikawa.
• Elepani ona T.L.C. ʻO Framboos Glycolic Night Serum ($ 90; sephora.com) ala hou i kou hiamoe ʻana.
• ʻO ka hoʻokuʻu ʻana i ka ʻakika Azelaic maʻamau 10% ($ 8; theondro.com) kani leo.
• BeautyRx na Kauka Schultz Advanced 10% Exfoliating Pads ($70; amazon.com) hoʻomaʻamaʻa, hoʻomālamalama, a paʻa.
• ʻO Kauka Brandt Radiance Resurfacing Foam ($ 72; sephora.com) hāʻawi i ka ʻili i kahi mahele pule o ʻelima mau waikawa.

Nānā no